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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.